Earthbound: Halloween Hack was really great! I played it this season. I wish it were longer though.

Thanks for posting the others! I’ll check them out!

In ye old’n times we would leave the console on as a stop-gap way to save the game between in-game save opportunities. Because ye old’n times game design philosophy believed that the added difficulty of crazily separated save points was “fun”.

In modern times I sleep the hardware if I expect to be back within <24 hrs, and power off if I expect to be longer.

(Thank god for saving memory states in emulators!!! Elsewise I probably wouldn’t play retro games at all.)

Update for anyone who might be experiencing this issue:

I finally found a workaround “hacky” solution. I exported all of my notes to a backup file on desktop, sent it to my phone, put my phone in airplane mode, imported the backup, deleted all of the duplicate notes which resulted (because the phone was partway synced), turned off airplane mode, synced, then switched to desktop and synced.

In the syncing process a lot of notes were unnecessarily deleted and replaced with exact copies. So it wasn’t elegant, but it got the job done. Everything seems to be working now (I think)

Thanks a lot for the help. I tried it all but no luck. I also realized that Fdroid uses a pre-release version of Joplin - so I downgraded to the latest on the GitHub and then repeated all of these tests/suggestions but still no change.

I’ve reached out to the devs via a GitHub issue. Hope that helps. Thanks again!!!

deleted by creator

What do you mean? That’s the same layout as the SNES controller, & it’s what most of the retro handhelds use.

Also, it’s running Linux so it’s easy to remap the buttons to a custom layout if desired.

deleted by creator

Oh, it looked Ok in my app (Voyager). But I added the line break.

Depending on the car you might be able to physically disable telemetry. Here are some thoughts/ideas I’ve been collecting:

• Hit “SOS” button and opt-out of all services through customer service. This of course requires trusting the company to actually do it.
  • It’s possible that the info could be stored locally and then uploaded when it gets serviced though
• Remove the fuse to the modem/data communication module (DCM)
• Disconnect wiring to the LTE antennas
• A number of people have mentioned that they can get the dealer to disconnect the telemetry as a precondition to buying. For instance, here.
• Jump the data communication module (DCM) cable with a ~$70 dongle to bypass just the telematics components
• Disconnect the DCM cable, which will likely gimp the infotainment if not other systems, or remove the entire DCM unit

Looked up “cromulent” in the dictionary. Wasn’t disappointed!!

The chances of a deal are said to be weeks away, if not non-existent.

What kind of non-sentence is that?

Looks like Gitlab hit the Dev with a dmce takedown notice.

Looks like there’s a copy on Github (at least for now).

If the browser extension isn’t working there’s always Archive.today and smry.ai provide cached versions of pages. Other alternatives are outlined here as well

This is a remake, not a port. And being so I wonder: “Why not just port Minetest instead? It’d get better longterm support that way. And why reinvent the wheel?”

Sweet! You’ve probably already found this, but if you’re interested in these devices the Retro Game Corps channel on YouTube is an invaluable resource. That guy does a beyond excellent job reviewing options and giving quality advice!

Yeah, for sure. The analog stocks work flawlessly & I love them. I use them for games where they’re native (i.e. ZDoom & mods), where they emulate a mouse (i.e. Minetest), or where they emulate a d-pad (i.e. psx games). All cases work great! For d-pad games I find myself switching back and forth between d-pad and sticks depending on the application (i.e. Tetris needs precision & is better with d-pad, NBA Jam needs adaptivity & is better with sticks).

I have an Anbernic RG353M & it sounds like it fits your needs. Emulates up to PSP. Moddable: I run ArkOS which is Debian-based - so I can SSH in, apt install programs, run custom bash scripts I wrote, etc. I also ported a desktop game to run on it. So moddability points are high! Also dual-boots into Android, so Android games are available if that’s your thing. It comes with the Android dual-boot right out of the box!

Downsides:

• It can be a little small in my hands for long play sessions. I have a custom 3D printed handle extension which works great and solves this problem.
• There’s a hardware problem involving the 3.5mm audio jack output where chip noise gets in the audio. Annoying, but ignorable. Switching to Bluetooth headphones is a fine workaround too.
• In long play sessions when the device gets hot horizontal bar artifacts show up on the screen. Like the audio thing, they are annoying but ignorable. When they show up I normally interpret it as a sign I’ve been playing too long and take a break while the device cools down.

Overall, it’s got those hardware quirks above but I still like it and I don’t regret it for the price (something like ~$100 a couple of years ago I think). Battery life is very good, even for graphics intensive games. It can go many hours without needing a charge, and generally it has better stamina than I do!

A couple of ideas:

Encoding holograms

• Model the object in 3D space (using Blender maybe?)
• Use the Angular Spectrum algorithm to model light propagation, its interaction with the object, and it hitting the recording medium.
• Your final recorded hologram should have two maps (aka “images”) across (x, y): a map of the light’s amplitude and another of its phase offset. This is your recorded hologram.

Decoding holograms:

• Use the angular spectrum algorithm again except reverse the light’s propagation direction. The amplitude and phase maps from the encoding phase are the initial conditions you’ll use for the light.
• The light’s amplitude and phase information you calculate at various planes above the recording plane are the 3D “reconstructed” image.

Last thought

Holography is often used to record information from the real world, and in that process it’s impossible to record the light’s phase during the encode step. Physicist’s call it “the phase problem” and there are all kinds of fancy tricks to try to get around it when decoding holograms in the computer. If you’re simulating everything from scratch then you have the luxury of recording the phase as well as the amplitude - and this should make decoding much easier as a result!

A coworker recently sent me a Word document with edits and comments they had added. When I downloaded & opened it (in Word on Windows!) it told me that it had the edits/comments but it wouldn’t let me see them unless I log in to my Microsoft account and then view it online in the web version of Word. What the actual fuck?

Fuck that. I responded to my coworker and asked them to just send me the edits via email in plain text. I’m not winning popularity contests at work, but what the fuck Microsoft?

Adnausium sounds really cool! How similar is it to uBlock in practice? (I don’t want to lose the great performance of uBlock)

If you’re nervous about the switch consider dual-booting. Then you’re not fully committed to the switch & you can have your old Windows system back whenever you want it.

Main steps are:

• Run a defrag on your Windows machine to physically consolidate all your Windows data to one area.
• Break that partition into two (Linux will go one the new empty side)
• Install Linux from a USB as normal, but don’t choose to wipe your drive completely. Choose a manual option instead where you specifically indicate your intended Linux partition from above.
• Optional: Once installation is complete you can set up another partition to hold files which can be available to both OSs.
  • Boot into Linux & define the remaining unused space in the Linux partition as a new NTFS partition & give it a name which makes it obvious what it is (i.e. “sharedspace”)
  • Then boot into Windows and move the existing data you’d like to share between OSs here (work documents, movies, music, etc.)

Some useful links:

• Video on setting up a dual boot
• Howtogeek used to have a great walkthrough for doing this but I’m getting a 404 error when I try to follow the link now :(
• Optional: Setting up Linux symlinks to point to the shared space partition