[EDITED for clarity]

Hi folks. For my next wireless split build, I’m exploring battery options for easy replacement while travelling. In this scenario, the battery’s reached its end of life and needs to be disposed of/replaced with a new one. However, it’s difficult to receive parcels or have access to a workshop while on the move, so the dead battery should be swappable without specialised tools, and the replacement battery should be easily sourced from any local hardware store.

For some background, this just happened to me. The LiPo in my current board was directly soldered to my nice!nano (bad choice, I know). Used the board on wired mode for a while, but the USB-C port became loose at some point due to accidental dragging and unplugging (I couldn’t find a magnetic USB adapter). Most local shops didn’t have the 3.7 V thin-ish LiPos that I often see in wireless splits, and language barrier made finding things difficult. Fortunately, I found a replacement battery (of dubious quality), but I want to make a dedicated battery slot in my next upgrade/build in case this happens again.

I know adding JST connector is an option, but the issue is, 3.7 V LiPos can be hard to find in some countries. I’m thinking of using AA or AAA-sized batteries (one-time usage or rechargeable type). Or use an RC LiPo (7.4 V?) but step down to around 3.7 V. Not sure what additional circuit or component would be required for this.

Has anyone tried to use such batteries for your split keyboards, or have seen a project that uses them? Also, if not AA/AAA-sized batteries, what other types and/or build would you suggest for this scenario?

(Photo from: https://www.dnkpower.com/lithium-polymer-battery-guide/)

  • jslr@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    0
    ·
    1 year ago

    Not sure I 100% understand what you’re looking for, but for a while I used a pair of 16340 batteries with shields /charging modules. One of my installed lipo batteries had failed and at the time I didn’t know what I was doing with soldering. I attached the 16340 shields to the underside of my Corne and used them to tent the halves with ultra short USB-C cables to power my nanos. Sounds a bit hacky, and it wasn’t a pretty or permanent solution, but it actually didn’t look too shabby, and it was functional.

    • mptsounds@lemmy.worldOP
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      0
      ·
      edit-2
      1 year ago

      Ooh that was an interesting approach. Glad you got it to work. In my case, I just replaced the failed battery with a new, temporary one (of dubious quality), then patched everything together with some rough soldering work and electrical tape.

      • jslr@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        2
        ·
        edit-2
        1 year ago

        :) At the time, I didn’t even own a soldering iron, and I wouldn’t have known what to do with it if I did!

        Repairing that battery myself later down the line was the first bit of soldering I ever did, which allowed me to then go on and build my first board.

        If I’m reading you right, glad to hear you’re all sorted.

        • mptsounds@lemmy.worldOP
          link
          fedilink
          arrow-up
          1
          ·
          1 year ago

          Nice job! Yeah, all is sorted out… for now xD There’s a chance something might come loose but at least I can access my tools back home soon-ish! Meanwhile, thinking how best to prevent this issue for my next build…