I wanted to share my experience with waxing my bike chains.

I was resistant to waxing my chains because it seems that a lot of people felt it was “too much work”.

But having to constantly clean black shit off my chains after every ride, then spend time degreasing and re-lubing, I figured I’d try waxing when I got my gravel bike.

Now, thousands of KM later and having converted all three bikes to waxed, there’s no way I’d go back. The time saved could be measured in hours per month.

First, the biggest complaint is chain prep. Yeah, regardless if you’re waxing or not, you’ll need to prep a new chain by removing the factory grease. With waxed, you do this once, and no more worrying about degreasing ever again. Make like easy and get Silca’s chain stripper, and it’s a 10 minute, one-step process.

Ongoing chain maintenance couldn’t be easier. After every ride, give the chain a quick wipe (or not). My chain stays clean, even after a 200 km ride.

And if you ride in wet or dirty conditions? Guess what, you’re in for a LOT of work if you lube your chain. With waxed, keep a second (or third) chain ready to go, and you just swap it out (10 seconds of effort). Take the dirty chain, give it a wipe if it’s only been wet, or pour boiled water onto it if you want to “reset” the chain to bare metal. Then drop it into the waxing pot for a re-wax. You don’t have to stand at the pot, so there’s no real time commitment here. I’ve spent more time completely dirtying large microfiber cloths trying to get my chain “clean” when lubed (hint: it’s never clean if you use a wet lube, not without solvents and an ultrasonic cleaner).

For actual immersion wax, I do it every 1000 km (sooner than you need to), and use a drip wax every 200 - 250 km to keep things fresh.

Honestly, wax is easier, cleaner, and takes less time to maintain vs wet lube.

The only downsides? The initial cost to get started. But this is offset by not having to replace chains or other components prematurely. You actually save money in the long-term when using waxed chains.

Some might argue that “you can’t run waxed chains in muddy or constantly rainy conditions”. Well, at the same time, your wet lube isn’t really helping matters in those situations, either. Waxed is still better, and you can swap chains much faster than you can clean the grinding paste from a wet lubed chain.

Who would I not recommend waxed chains to? Someone who rarely uses their bike. Drip lube will be “good enough” in those cases. But anyone else would benefit from waxing their chain.

  • lud@lemm.ee
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    16 days ago

    Even easier is not caring or even knowing that you are supposed to do anything.

    • Showroom7561@lemmy.caOP
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      16 days ago

      Ah, you must be one of those cyclists I can hear a mile away! SQUEAK, SQUEAK, SQUEAK!! 😂

      • Avid Amoeba@lemmy.ca
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        16 days ago

        Another surprising thing for me is that at no point did it start making shameful noises.

            • Showroom7561@lemmy.caOP
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              15 days ago

              Sounds like a dream! I’m sure at some point I’ll go with a belt drive. For now, I’m quite content with a low-maintenance chain drivetrain. Especially for their ubiquity, lower cost, and ease of repair while out in the middle of nowhere. LOL

                • Showroom7561@lemmy.caOP
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                  15 days ago

                  Changing a rear tyre on a split frame in the middle of no where would be beyond me.

                  I don’t think it’s that difficult, at least not from the videos I’ve seen. But it certainly would be a challenge if you weren’t in a comfortable area to do the work.

        • Showroom7561@lemmy.caOP
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          15 days ago

          One thing I’ve done with my winter bike is added a front fender extender (DIY), which prevents any spray from hitting the front chainrings, chain, or down tube. Last year, it was a total game changer. The only thing I couldn’t really help with was spray from the rear fender, which drips downwards onto the chain and cassette.

          I don’t even think a Dutch-style chain guard would help prevent contamination from the rear cassette getting drenched.

          But the best “winter bike” is one with an internal gear hub, and a belt drive. And an aluminum frame. Unless you really abuse the hell out of it, there should be very little to worry about.

      • lud@lemm.ee
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        16 days ago

        Haha, luckily I haven’t biked for quite a few years. My work is pretty away and I can play Ghost of Tsushima on the train.